Monday, October 26, 2009

What's for Dinner?: Italian Sausage Torta


Cool weather often seems to require more robust meals -- this main dish is delicious and might expand your definition of Italian food. There is nary a tomato to be found.

This meal is a lot of work to prepare but I think it is worth it! All the prep work (and most of the clean-up) can be done earlier in the day and then the dish can be baked just before serving. This means that it is a relaxing meal to serve to friends.

This recipe originally appeared in Gourmet magazine in an issue devoted to Italian food.



INGREDIENTS:

For crespelle: (I guess that is Italian for crepes!)
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2/3 cup whole milk
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For filling: (If you can't find broccoli rabe, just use the tender tops of broccoli, chopped fine)
  • 3/4 pound broccoli rabe
  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried hot red-pepper flakes
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3/4 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

For besciamella sauce:
  • 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 3/4 cups whole milk
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1 ounce finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup)

For assembly:
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
  • 1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
  • 1/4 pound chilled Italian Fontina, coarsely grated (1 cup)
  • 1 ounce finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup)

  • Special equipment: an 8-inch (20-cm) round springform pan

METHOD:

Make crespelle:
Blend together eggs, milk, flour, and salt in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a bowl.

Lightly brush a 10-inch nonstick skillet with melted butter and heat over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Ladle about 1/4 cup batter into skillet, tilting and rotating skillet to coat bottom, then pour excess batter back into bowl. (If batter sets before skillet is coated, reduce heat slightly for next crespella.) Cook until just set and underside is lightly browned, about 30 seconds, then invert crespella onto a clean kitchen towel to cool completely. (It will be cooked on one side only.) Make 5 more crespelle with remaining batter in same manner, brushing skillet with melted butter as needed.

Make filling:
Cut off and discard 1 inch from stem ends of broccoli rabe, then coarsely chop remainder.

Cook broccoli rabe in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a large bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking. Drain well in a colander and pat dry.

Cook garlic with red-pepper flakes in oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 8 minutes. Add sausage and cook, breaking up sausage with back of a wooden spoon, until no longer pink inside, about 5 minutes. Stir in broccoli rabe and cook, tossing to coat with sausage, until heated through, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

Make sauce:
Heat butter in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat until foam subsides, then add flour and cook, whisking, 3 minutes. Add milk in a slow stream, whisking, and bring to a boil, whisking. Reduce heat and simmer, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes. Stir in salt, pepper, and cheese, then remove from heat.

Assemble torta:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 425°F. Invert bottom of springform pan (torta will be easier to slide off bottom when serving), then lock. Wrap outside of entire bottom of springform pan with a double layer of foil. Generously brush inside bottom and side of pan with butter, then sprinkle bottom with bread crumbs.

Stir together Fontina and parmesan in a bowl. Put 1 crespella in bottom of springform pan, then sprinkle with one sixth of filling and drizzle with 1/3 cup sauce. Make 5 more layers each of crespella, filling, and sauce (end with a layer of sauce). Sprinkle cheese mixture evenly over top.

Bake, uncovered, until top is bubbling and golden, about 25 minutes. Cool in pan on a rack 15 minutes. Remove side of pan and carefully slide torta off bottom of pan onto a plate. Cut torta into wedges.





Sunday, October 25, 2009

Bacon, Bacon!


I have to admit that I love bacon. It is great at breakfast or anytime and adds flavor to soups and sandwiches and it can be added to slow-cooked foods like short ribs to add complexity of flavor to a long-simmering sauce.

When eating crispy slices of fried bacon for breakfast, it pays to buy a premium brand such as Applegate Farms. The flavor of this bacon is sensational and it is produced without nitrites.

(Nitrites are added to meats to prevent bacterial growth and to give a deeper red color to the meat. Nitrites are thought by many to increase the risk of some cancers, DNA mutations, brain tumors and chronic obstructive pulmonary disease or COPD). For more information on nitrites, visit SixWise.com.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Nothing in the Refrigerator

Dinner When You Haven't Been to the Market

Sometimes your day can get busy and hectic and even though you know your cupboard is bare, you just don't have time to get to the market. Do you have any 'standby' simple meals? Or do you pick up the phone and order takeout?

Here are three quick things I make for a simple dinner -- I usually have something on hand...

Pasta with Cream Sauce
While your pasta cooks, melt a few tablespoons of butter in a skillet, throw in a couple of cloves of garlic, minced. Add a couple of sliced green onions, if you have them, or maybe a little bit of sliced onion. A few sliced mushrooms, too, if you have any. Saute these items until tender then add about 1/2 cup heavy cream and about 1/3 cup grated parmesan. Pour this sauce over cooked pasta.

Grilled Cheese
Take two types of cheese (cheddar, american, swiss, etc.) add a couple pieces of ham, cooked bacon or leftover pancetta, and a slice of tomato if you have one. Grill sandwich and serve with sliced apple or other fruit.

Omelette
If you have a couple of eggs, you have dinner. Pick easy fillings, in a combination you enjoy. Cheese, spinach, onion, tomatoes, ham, bacon -- whatever!

The more you cook, the more creative you will become with the contents of your refrigerator, freezer and pantry.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

A Day Out of the Kitchen

Since I am here in New York City right now, I must confess that I am not cooking as often as I do at home. It is some combination of having lots of restaurants all around me and having a tiny kitchen with minimal equipment here.

Last night, I went out with girlfriends and we had dinner at Orsay, a nice French Brasserie on Lexington at 75th Street. If you go, plan on some selections from the antique trolley of appetizers that is presented tableside.

It was Tuesday, but we acted like it was a Saturday night and finished our night with drinks at the Hudson, an almost secret hotel near the Time Warner Center.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Kitchen Tip: Break an Egg

Eggs are a common ingredient when cooking and baking. When you break an egg and a bit of shell lands in the bowl with your egg it can be difficult to fish the shell out of the bowl. Here is a valuable tip. Use half an egg shell to dip the broken bit of shell out from the egg in the bowl. The broken bit is magically attracted to the egg shell in your hand. Generally, with one scoop the eggshell is removed from the eggs and you can proceed with your cooking.



This photo doesn't quite do it justice -- before you criticize, you might try holding and scooping a broken bit of eggshell out with one hand while taking a picture with the other and trying not to drop your camera into a bowl of eggs!

Do I hear someone saying I should get an assitant??



Monday, October 19, 2009

What's for Dinner?: Pork Tenderloin with Onions and Apples


Pork tenderloin is a versatile cut of meat. Here, the classic combination of pork and apples is enhanced by the flavors of onions and horseradish.





INGREDIENTS


1 pork tenderloin, approximately 1-1.5 pounds
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
1/4 cup sherry
2 tablespoons creamed horseradish
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons butter
1 medium onion, sliced
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and sliced


METHOD

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Salt and pepper pork tenderloin and place in shallow roasting pan.

Mix together the heavy cream, sherry, horseradish and mustard.
Baste pork with this mixture and place in oven. Roast pork until slightly pink in center (approx. 140 degrees on a meat thermometer). The amount of time will vary with the thickness of the pork roast. Baste occasionally with creamy horseradish sauce.

About 15-20 minutes b
efore the roast is done, melt the butter in a skillet and saute the onions and apples until the onions are transparent and the apples are soft.


Just before serving, slice the pork roast. Add the pan
juices and any remaining creamy horseradish sauce to the skillet with the onions and apples and warm through. Serve several slices of pork per person with onion, apples and cream sauce on top of each portion.



Suggested accompaniments include rice pilaf (shown above) or mashed potatoes along with a green vegetable.







Saturday, October 17, 2009

What's for Dinner?: Steak with Parmesan Butter, Balsamic Glaze, and Arugula



This is a quick weeknight entree.

Add a baguette and a glass of red wine, and you've got a meal!




STEAK WITH PARMESAN BUTTER, BALSAMIC GLAZE, AND ARUGULA
(serves 2)

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan Cheese plus Parmesan Cheese shavings (use the best Parmesan that you can find; create shavings with a vegetable peeler, 4 shavings per person)
1 1/2 tablespoons butter, room temperature
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/4 cup Balsamic Vinegar
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
1/2 teaspoon brown sugar
4 cups (lightly packed) arugula or other salad greens, the more bitter greens are best for this recipe
2 large lemon wedges

Method:

Mix grated parmesan and butter in small bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper; set aside. Sprinkle steak generously with salt and pepper. Heat oil in medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add steak; cook to desired doneness, about 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer to plate. Add venegar, shallots, and sugarto skillet. Boil until reduced to glaze, stirring constantly about 1 minute.

Divide arugula between 2 plates. Add parmesan shavings to plate. Squeeze lemon over greens and cheese. Slice steak and place atop arugula. Top each steak with a bit of the parmesan butter. Drizzle glaze over steaks.

Recipe from Bon Appetit, October, 2008; Photo from www.epicurious.com